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ONE of the great mysteries of the 20th century is how British food got so bad. In the Middle Ages, it seems to have been rather tasty and surprisingly Middle Eastern, with generous use of spices and almonds. There is nothing in history or literature to suggest that during the next five or six centuries it was any worse than anywhere else; but something seems to have happened in the 19th century, because by the 20th it was widely acknowledged to be disgusting.
2. A plausible explanation rests on the consequences of the industrial revolution. During the 19th century, so the argument goes, the rising middle classes aped the habits of the aristocracy. Titled women never went into the kitchen, so middle-class ladies abandoned cooking for more refined pursuits. The anonymous 19th-century author of “Dinners and Dinner Parties, or the Absurdities of Artificial Life” claimed that “a century ago the art of cookery was fashionable among English girls and Englishwomen...nowadays, piano mania and reception rooms are all that they think of; cookery is out of use, and only practised by the lower orders.”
3. Still, the question of what went wrong with British food is now largely of academic interest, because things have got so much better over the past 20 years. The kitchen has been recolonised and transformed into the middle classes' main room. Britons have rediscovered their interest in food (they don't actually cook, but that is another matter). The newspapers are full of recipes and restaurant reviews; the cities are packed with new restaurants exploring the latest taste fad; the television schedules with their celebrity chef programmes. (Though this may be ominous: a customer once said darkly to Alain Senderens, a French chef, that when the Romans started to erect statues of their cooks, everything started to go downhill.)
4. The most noticeable change is in the quality of produce available in shops. Twenty years ago, the only lettuce on offer was an iceberg, usually wrapped in cling-film and slightly yellow at the edges. Avocados were about as exciting as vegetables got. Tomatoes were either orange and hard as nails or red and mushy. These days Britain's supermarkets, among the best in the world, overflow with plenty and variety. Five years ago Tesco offered six or seven types of tomato. Now it offers 15. Quality has followed variety: several of these types of tomatoes smell and taste nice.
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