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Introduction Acne, also known as acne vulgaris, is a common skin condition that mainly affects teenagers.Hibiscus sabdariffa extract adds inflammatory benefits targeting key factors in acne formation.Four experimental formulas suggested by a D-optimal design Ingredients F1 F2 F3 F4

Borax Tween 80 Surfactant (gm) 0.2 0.4 0.2 0.4 Bees wax (gm) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Soft paraffin (gm) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Grape seed oil and Vit E (gm) 10 10 10 10 Hibiscus extract (gm) 4.8 4.8 4.8 4.8 Sodium salicylate (gm) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25

2.2.2 Preparation of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. Extract For preparation of water extraction, 25 gm sample of roselle was added to 250 ml distilled water and the mixture was boiled for 10 min while stirring.Viscosity not only affects features such as spreadability and skin feel, but may also affect the skin penetration of incorporated actives and lead to a higher physicochemical stability of the formulation (15) cP =TK xSMC x Were, Cp= viscosity TK = Torque % SMC = Spindle multiplier constant Spreadibility test The herbal cream sample was applied between the two glass slides and was compressed between the two glass slides to uniform thickness by placing 100g of weight for 5 minutes then weight was added to the weighing pan.The development of acne involves four key factors: firstly, an androgen-induced increase in sebum production; secondly, abnormal keratinization leading to clogged follicles; thirdly, the growth of Cutibacterium acnes bacteria; and finally, inflammation of the skin around the affected area (1).2.2.3 In vitro Characterization of herbal cold cream (11): Macroscopical examination: Topical cream was individually tested for the homogeneity and phase separation and was evaluated on its appearance in terms of color, pearlescent and roughness and graded accordingly also the washability of the cream was evaluated and observed on the running water.Bees wax, soft paraffin, Borax, Tween and Sodium salicylate were supplied by Department of pharmaceutics, College of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Drug Manufacturing, Misr University for Science and Technology (6 October, Giza, Egypt).Formulation of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. cold cream involves three steps: In the formulation of the cold cream water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion (10), the aqueous phase is formed by blending 4.8 ml of the Hibiscus extract with 0.22 g of either Borax or tween and 0.25 g of sodium salicylate in a 50 ml beaker.This mixture is then heated to 75?C using a water bath (Lab-Line Instruments, Melrose Park, IL, USA) Concurrently, the oil phase is prepared by melting 2.5 g of beeswax, 2.5 g of soft paraffin, 10 ml of grape seed oil, and vitamin E in a separate porcelain dish.Notably, hibiscus extract demonstrates significant antibacterial effects against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, which are associated with inflammatory acne.fig.1:Response surface curve showing interaction between PH and A(surfactant type)B(surfactant concentration)fig2:Response surface curve interaction between spreadability and(A:surfactant type) B(surfactant concentration)fig3:Response surface curve interaction between viscosity and (a:surfactant type)B(surfactant concentration)

Optimization of Formulation Components the process was optimized for all three responses.Among the various ingredients investigated for their therapeutic properties in acne management, grape seed and hibiscus extract have garnered attention due to its potential benefits.2 Materials and methods: 2.1 Materials: Grape seed oil and vit E was supplied by Raw African for Cosme pharmaceutical (Nasr City, Cairo, Egypt).Factors Low limit (-1) High limit (1) A: surfactant type Borax Tween 80 B:surfactant concentration (%) 1 2 responses Goals Y1: PH 4:6 Y2: Spreadability Maximize Y3: Viscosity Maximize

Table 2.Topical products should ideally have a pH in the range of 4 to 6 for optimal skin health.(14) Viscosity Viscosity of the herbal cream was determined with the help of Brookfield viscometer at 100 rpm with a spindle number 40.(13) Spreadability = M = weight tied to upper slide L = length moved on the glass slide
T = time taken to separate the slide
3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Macroscopical evaluation: Different batches of cream were prepared and subjected to physico-chemical characterization to assess the various characteristics.Responses measured Formulations Colour PH Viscosity Spreadability Washability F1 Bright magenta 5.5 520 66 Easily washable F2 Faint violet 6.07 282 50 Easily washable F3 violet 5.3 412 56 Easily washable F4 violet 5.3 435 60 Easily washable

PH: The pH of the cream was found to be in the range of 5.3 to 6.07.Additionally, grape seed oil exhibits antimicrobial properties, making it effective in combating bacteria that can contribute to various skin concerns, including acne.Grape seed oil is known for its high antioxidant capacity, attributed to its high content of gallic acid, catechin, epicatechin, procyanidins, and proanthocyanidins.Furthermore, it exhibits protective effects against oxidative stress caused by UVB rays, thereby reducing damage to collagen and elastin fibers in the skin (5).In this study, we aim on utilizing Hibiscus sabdariffa extract and grape seed oil to treatment own to their antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory actions to treat acne.The factors were calculated by low and high, at 2 levels indicating (-1, +1) respectively, the dependent responses were PH (Y1), spread ability (Y2) and viscosity (Y3) Table 1 illustrates the independent factors with targeted responses.Spreadability of semisolid formulations, that is, the ability of a cream to evenly spread on the skin, plays an important role in the administration of a standard dose of a medicated formulation to the skin and the efficacy of a topical therapy.Our cream falls into the category of W/O emulsions, which offers distinct advantages in terms of moisturization and the formation of a long-lasting protective barrier on the skin (6).The final optimal experimental parameters were calculated using the extensive grid search and feasibility search provided in the Design Expert software.Forms a lasting layer promoting skin healing and comfort.The incorporation of these ingredients into one formula F1 shows promise as a treatment option, for individuals dealing with acne vulgaris..

Introduction
Acne, also known as acne vulgaris, is a common skin condition that mainly affects teenagers. It is characterized by comedones, papules, pustules, and in severe cases, nodules and cysts. The development of acne involves four key factors: firstly, an androgen-induced increase in sebum production; secondly, abnormal keratinization leading to clogged follicles; thirdly, the growth of Cutibacterium acnes bacteria; and finally, inflammation of the skin around the affected area (1).
Acne can have a significant impact on patients' psychosocial health. It can severely affect a person's psychological and social well-being. Moreover, acne not only causes physical blemishes but can also result in emotional struggles such as low self-confidence, isolation, anxiety, and depression. Additionally, teenagers with acne may be seen by their friends as quiet, less outgoing, and at a higher risk of being bullied, which can hinder their professional opportunities (2). Furthermore, the trivialization of acne by others, including healthcare professionals, can exacerbate the sense of isolation and misunderstanding experienced by those affected. This lack of recognition and subsequent trivialization can lead to a diminished quality of life and may affect long-term treatment adherence and overall management of the condition (3). Among the various ingredients investigated for their therapeutic properties in acne management, grape seed and hibiscus extract have garnered attention due to its potential benefits.
Grape seed oil is renowned for its potent antioxidant properties. Specifically, it helps protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation and pollution. Additionally, grape seed oil exhibits antimicrobial properties, making it effective in combating bacteria that can contribute to various skin concerns, including acne. Grape seed oil is known for its high antioxidant capacity, attributed to its high content of gallic acid, catechin, epicatechin, procyanidins, and proanthocyanidins. These compounds contribute to the oil's ability to combat oxidative stress and protect the skin (4). Notably, hibiscus extract demonstrates significant antibacterial effects against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, which are associated with inflammatory acne. Furthermore, it exhibits protective effects against oxidative stress caused by UVB rays, thereby reducing damage to collagen and elastin fibers in the skin (5).

Considering the convenience and popularity of cream formulations among teenagers, we have chosen this form to incorporate the active ingredient. Our cream falls into the category of W/O emulsions, which offers distinct advantages in terms of moisturization and the formation of a long-lasting protective barrier on the skin (6).
Moreover, the cream formulation includes other ingredients with specific functions. For instance, borax is used in cosmetic products as an emulsifier, buffering agent, or preservative. Similarly, beeswax acts as an occlusive, helping to create a semi-occlusive skin barrier and lock in hydration. Additionally, soft paraffin contains occlusive agents, humectants, and lubricants, making it an effective emollient (7). Lastly, vitamin E provides protective and skin-firming effects (8).
In order to statistically result and optimize the formulation we used design expert software to ensure that our cream is of the utmost quality and efficacy for its intended purposes.
In this study, we aim on utilizing Hibiscus sabdariffa extract and grape seed oil to treatment own to their antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory actions to treat acne.
2 Materials and methods:
2.1 Materials:
Grape seed oil and vit E was supplied by Raw African for Cosme pharmaceutical (Nasr City, Cairo, Egypt). Bees wax, soft paraffin, Borax, Tween and Sodium salicylate were supplied by Department of pharmaceutics, College of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Drug Manufacturing, Misr University for Science and Technology (6 October, Giza, Egypt). Hibiscus Sabdarrifa was supplied by El shams Apothecary (Mohandessin , Giza, Egypt).

2.2 Methods:

2.2.1 Experimental Design
The D-optimal design was used to find correlation between independent and dependent variables by using Design-Expert® software, version 13. An initial screening of the independent factors as surfactant type (A), surfactant concentration (B), was conducted to select the most effective of them on the chosen dependent factors. The formulations were optimized by 22 factorial designs. The factors were calculated by low and high, at 2 levels indicating (-1, +1) respectively, the dependent responses were PH (Y1), spread ability (Y2) and viscosity (Y3) Table 1 illustrates the independent factors with targeted responses. Furthermore, Table 2 lists the design’s suggested four formulas and the resulting responses.

Table 1. D-optimal design with the independent variables and the examined responses.
Factors
Low limit (-1)
High limit (1)
A: surfactant type
Borax
Tween 80
B:surfactant concentration (%)
1
2
responses
Goals
Y1: PH
4:6
Y2: Spreadability
Maximize
Y3: Viscosity
Maximize

Table 2. Four experimental formulas suggested by a D-optimal design
Ingredients
F1
F2
F3
F4

Borax
Tween 80
Surfactant (gm)
0.2
0.4
0.2
0.4
Bees wax (gm)
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
Soft paraffin (gm)
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
Grape seed oil and Vit E (gm)
10
10
10
10
Hibiscus extract (gm)
4.8
4.8
4.8
4.8
Sodium salicylate (gm)
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25

2.2.2 Preparation of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. Extract
For preparation of water extraction, 25 gm sample of roselle was added to 250 ml distilled water and the mixture was boiled for 10 min while stirring. Then, the extract was filtered from filter paper (9).
Formulation of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. cold cream involves three steps:
In the formulation of the cold cream water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion (10), the aqueous phase is formed by blending 4.8 ml of the Hibiscus extract with 0.22 g of either Borax or tween and 0.25 g of sodium salicylate in a 50 ml beaker. This mixture is then heated to 75°C using a water bath (Lab-Line Instruments, Melrose Park, IL, USA) Concurrently, the oil phase is prepared by melting 2.5 g of beeswax, 2.5 g of soft paraffin, 10 ml of grape seed oil, and vitamin E in a separate porcelain dish. This combination is also heated to 75°C in a water bath. Finally, to create the homogenous cream, the aqueous phase is gradually added to the oil phase with constant stirring. This process continues until a uniform cream is achieved, ensuring the proper integration of both phases (11).
2.2.3 In vitro Characterization of herbal cold cream (11):
Macroscopical examination:
Topical cream was individually tested for the homogeneity and phase separation and was evaluated on its appearance in terms of color, pearlescent and roughness and graded accordingly also the washability of the cream was evaluated and observed on the running water.
PH

Weigh 0.5g of prepared cream and dissolve it in 50ml of distilled water and its pH was measured with the help of digital pH meter. Topical products should ideally have a pH in the range of 4 to 6 for optimal skin health.(14)
Viscosity
Viscosity of the herbal cream was determined with the help of Brookfield viscometer at 100 rpm with a spindle number 40. Viscosity not only affects features such as spreadability and skin feel, but may also affect the skin penetration of incorporated actives and lead to a higher physicochemical stability of the formulation (15)
cP =TK xSMC x
Were,
Cp= viscosity
TK = Torque %
SMC = Spindle multiplier constant
Spreadibility test
The herbal cream sample was applied between the two glass slides and was compressed between the two glass slides to uniform thickness by placing 100g of weight for 5 minutes then weight was added to the weighing pan. The time in which the upper glass slide moved over the lower slide was taken as a measure of spread ability. Spreadability of semisolid formulations, that is, the ability of a cream to evenly spread on the skin, plays an important role in the administration of a standard dose of a medicated formulation to the skin and the efficacy of a topical therapy. (13)
Spreadability =
M = weight tied to upper slide
L = length moved on the glass slide

T = time taken to separate the slide

3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Macroscopical evaluation:
Different batches of cream were prepared and subjected to physico-chemical characterization to assess the various characteristics. This included homogeneity, appearance, Spreadability. It was found that the cream was homogeneous and smooth and consistent in nature, easily spreadable and uniform in appearance, Also, it had pleasant aroma. . The spreadability of the formulation was found to be in range of 50 to 66 , formulation F1 was found to be homogenized , smooth and complete absent of any grittiness particle in texture analysis. (13)

Evaluation of Herbal cold cream:
The prepared herbal cold cream was evaluated for the above-mentioned parameters and the result was observed as follows:
Table 3. Responses measured
Formulations
Colour
PH
Viscosity
Spreadability
Washability
F1
Bright magenta
5.5
520
66
Easily washable
F2
Faint violet
6.07
282
50
Easily washable
F3
violet
5.3
412
56
Easily washable
F4
violet
5.3
435
60
Easily washable

PH:
The pH of the cream was found to be in the range of 5.3 to 6.07. This range aligns well with the naturally acidic pH of human skin, which typically falls between 4.0 and 6.0. Maintaining this range is crucial because preparations with a pH more acidic than skin can irritate during application,while those more alkaline can cause dryness.
The impact of surfactant selection and its concentration on final cream pH was investigated as shown in (fig1). Formulations containing borax exhibited a pH of 5.8, while those incorporating Tween 80 resulted in a pH of 5.3. This difference highlights the influence of surfactant choice on overall product acidity. Importantly, both formulations fell within the acceptable pH range. However, it was also observed that a higher surfactant concentration resulted in a higher pH value. This finding is valuable for future optimization of the cream's formulation.
fig.1:Response surface curve showing interaction between PH and A(surfactant type)B(surfactant concentration)fig2:Response surface curve interaction between spreadability and(A:surfactant type) B(surfactant concentration)fig3:Response surface curve interaction between viscosity and (a:surfactant type)B(surfactant concentration)

Optimization of Formulation Components
the process was optimized for all three responses. Optimum formulation was selected based on the constraints set on independent variables. The final optimal experimental parameters were calculated using the extensive grid search and feasibility search provided in the Design Expert software. After generation of the polynomial equations to correlate the dependent and independent variables, the process was optimized for responses. Optimum formulation was selected on the basis of the results of the evaluation tests. Thus, the optimized formulation was F1 which had pH of 5,68 , viscosity of 412 cps and spreadability 61.
According to aforementioned findings, the cream formulation demonstrated good consistency and spreadability. During the research study period, there is no phase separation, and the substance is homogenous,PH- neutral, and non greasy. The herbal cold cream is safe to use because it was made from herbal extract, according to the study mention above (12)

Conclusion:
This research delves into the aspects of acne vulgaris. How it significantly affects the mental and social wellbeing of teenagers. The emotional strain and social obstacles caused by this skin condition are noteworthy. To address both the physiological and psychological aspects of acne, we have formulated a novel topical cream. This cream combines grape seed oil and Hibiscus sabdariffa extract to work together effectively. Grape seed oil offers protection, against damage due to its antioxidants while also helping to control bacterial growth with its antimicrobial properties. Hibiscus sabdariffa extract adds inflammatory benefits targeting key factors in acne formation. By using a water in oil emulsion base this cream deeply moisturizes the skin. Forms a lasting layer promoting skin healing and comfort.The incorporation of these ingredients into one formula F1 shows promise as a treatment option, for individuals dealing with acne vulgaris.